Rudder Pintels

The alternative might be to go for a 4 fastening top gudgeon fitting if you have a 2 hole one - making sure it is lined up accurately.
To make doubly sure it stays put put some resin into the screw holes.
Then get the alingment sorted by adjusting the bottom bolted pintle - the small hatch obviously allowed whoever to gain some access originally. You might have to remove the fitting completely first - fill in holes with resin and a little glass and then carefully redrill and bolt - fiddly stuff but might be much easier than a larger hatch.

Mike Lyons

Pintles

The piintle problem is well known - later Mk II boats do have bolted fittings and a hatch to allow access to the inside of the rudder post. MkI boats have screws going into a nylon block within the post. The screws always undo in time - best method of improving is to remove the screws and fill the holes with epoxy resin before replacing the screws in the holes. Do not overtighten though as this does not help - let the resin do the job. You can also use gelcoat if you do not have epoxy.
The stainless steel part that keeps the rudder attached: loosen the screw and adjust it down so that it just clears the top of the gudgeon (rudder) when the rudder stock is fully in position.